A GLIMPSE OF MODERN SPAIN.
Bv MISS LAURA BELL.
So much has been said and written during the last few months about the history of Spain at the close of the fifteenth century, the time when we as a country first came into historical contact with the civilized world, that I think we are all more familiar with the customs of the Spain of that period than we are with the Spain of today.
Entering Spain from France and crossing the Pyrenees, the first interesting place at which to stop is San Sebastian, the noted fashionable Spanish watering place. The Court removes there in the summer, and in fine weather the little King can be seen daily driving to and from the new chateau, which has been built for him, at the extreme end of the town, and which commands a beautiful view of La Concha, the shell-shaped harbor lying below, and the beetling crags opposite, with houses clinging to the steep hillsides. The bath-houses are ranged along the beach, and being on wheels, can easily be run into the water, thus avoiding the disagreeable walk across the sand. The King’s bath-house is larger than the others, more like a little summer pavilion with a piazza around it; the windows are hung with pretty curtains, the roof and sides are painted yellow and red, the Spanish colors, and surmounted with a crown. A railroad has been constructed down into the water for his bath-house to run over, making a still more agreeable way of reaching the surf. Poor little King! May his path thro’ life be smooth and pleasant.
On the way to Madrid, everyone spends a few hours in Burgos, so as to visit the ancient cathedral and to gaze respectfully on the receptacle of the bones of the Cid, that venerable personage about whom there is so comparatively little known, but whose memory is held in such high repute by his countrymen. I think, however, the “ beggars ” of Burgos made as much of an impression upon me as did these two recognized sights of the town. A little squad of ragged and forlorn humanity, varying in number, by actual count, from half a dozen to tw 7 enty-three, followed in our wake, displaying mutilated limbs and sores of every description, too distressing to look upon, and yet so difficult to escape from doing so, for in Spain beggary is a profession, requiring a license, and parents often maim their children in infancy so as to be certain of procuring a livelihood for them in the future. Such crippled objects as are always seen in the streets would not, in our own country, be tolerated out of a hospital or an asylum, and yet they drag themselves about, presenting a tray for alms to every passer-by. They even besiege the open street cars, where they pass around their little waiter, collecting nearly as many coins thereon as does the conductor himself. The first time I saw this done I really thought it was a new way of collecting fare! I was told a story about a valued servant girl leaving her mistress to be married. The lady was naturally interested in the welfare of the girl, and on inquiring what her future husband’s prospects were, was told with great pride that he had been a poor workman, but now was very well off, indeed, as he had a profession; in fact, he was a beggar with a license. So we see that professional beggars occupy a very different status in different countries.
Proceeding to Madrid, one finds there many things of interest, though here, as elsewhere; the capital has more cosmopolitan than distinctively national features. In the one instance of wearing mantillas, fewer are seen in Madrid than farther south, as
Miss Laura Bell is a resident of Philadelphia, where she was bom and educated, and although much of her time has been spent in traveling throughout her own country, Mexico, Europe and Asia, yet she maintains a deep interest in her native city, and is a member of several of its clubs and institutions. From time to time she has written papers on various subjects and has published one volume of verses called “In Verse Proportion.” Her postoffice address is 1428 Spencer Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
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