British Colonies.
*97
Jewellery Worn by Women.
1. Ear ornament, “Vaaly.” The Tamil women, except the Brahmin class, and people from India and their descendants, wear this on ordinary occasions ; the upper parts of the ears are perforated in such a way as to receive the joints of the two pieces of “Vaaly,” and keep the ornament in a vertical position.
2. Five pairs of Earrings.— See explanation given for i and 3.
3. Ear ornament, “ Kalhuppu,” worn in the ear, in the same hole in which earrings are worn, but this ornament stands over the earrings.
4. Nose ornament, “ Mookuttie,” in a bore on the left side end of the nose.
5. A Necklace, “ Karisamany.” Several kinds of necklaces are worn by women, above the collar bone ; but this is worn around the upper part of the neck.
6. A Necklace, “ Thaddumany,” worn below “ Karisamany.”
8. A Necklace, “ Maniaddial,” worn as an addition to “ Karisamany,” and sometimes instead of “ Karisamany,” but its place is between the “Karisamany” and “Thaddumany.”
9. Wedding Necklace “Thaly” and “Charadoo,” worn by women from the day of marriage during the life of their husbands. The meaning of the “ Thaly ” differs in object from that of wedding-ring of other nations; the Tamil women wear it as a sacred mark to distinguish themselves from unmarried women and widows. “Tha’v” is the round solid ornament in the middle of the gold string “ Charadoo,” which is worn in front.
10. Silver Arm-ring, “ Kadasam ;” bangles worn on the arm near the wrist.
12. “ Valayal,” worn as above—four on each arm.
13. Finger-rings, worn on the index finger, ring-finger, and little finger of the left hand—from two to four rings on each finger.
14. “ Kaal Motheram,” or toe-rings, worn one on each of the four toes of both feet, except the big toe.
15. Five-stringed beads, worn round the neck to hang over the breast, the shortest string near about the collar bone.
16. Two-stringed beads “ Larye,” worn beneath the five strings.
17. Hair-pins.
The colour of these jewels is not the natural colour of gold. The Tamils, being dissatisfied with its natural colour, give it an artificial one. The ingredients and the process employed for fixing the colour are the following:—After the jewel is made and completed it is heated, and then put into a solution of salt. The quantity of water used for the solution is just sufficient to cover the jewel. The gold then turns white, and is cleaned by rubbing it with soft white sand. The jewel is then put into a solution, composed of salt and alum in equal quantities, and in alum and saltpetre twice as much, and is treated till the whole solution is evaporated and slightly heated, when it assumes a yellow colour. It is then dipped in water, and cleaned with soft white sand, and again heated in the last-named solution ; cleaned with sand and polished.
This colouring is further carried on as follows:—A solution is made of acid of Gorga fruit or Tamarind, and a very slight quantity of brimstone, and what remains of the last solution, cr rather its dregs, after evaporation, and heated. When the solution begins to boil, the jewel is put into it, and moved about until the desired colour is obtained.
The silver jewels also admit of colouring. The process is nearly the same as in the case of the gold, but the use of brimstone is avoided, and they are principally dipped in a solution of lime.
In ancient times there were distinctions as to what jewels certain classes of people should wear, and what classes should not, and also as to town fashion and country fashion ; but they are now worn indiscriminately by all classes of the people, and by the people of all districts.